My First Classic Car! A 1987 GTA V6 Atmo - E43 CJA

Hi Raaj.

As you've probably read already, clutch is an engine out job. RATS, JL or Paul Sage are probably the best bets.

It's not complicated, but you do need the ramps really to cut the work down. The engine either comes out via the hatch (leaving the gearbox in situ) or the gearbox, suspension, engine and entire rear subframe all come out the bottom as one unit - secured by 4? really big bolts. The latter sounds more difficult, but is the easier, more efficient option. Whilst it's out, I'd do the other jobs - check for any subframe corrosion, same on the suspension etc. Also worth checking the slave cylinder and potentially rebuilding (atmo can be replaced more easily in situ, so not as much pain as the turbo). Also check the clutch fork arm and exchange for the later version if it's not already been swapped over.
I would also look at replacing the front to rear coolant pipes. Yes it's another £500+ to do that, in stainless or aluminium but again it's an engine out job if they spring a leak later anyway. Add in that you're disturbing everything and it makes sense to do that as one if you can, especially if you're now going to use regularly.

Cheers
Darren

Thank you very much for the advice Darren, I appreciate it! I have Paul's number so I will definitely give him a call - I've heard through the grapevine about RATS and JL too, so that definitely gives me some good options depending on location. It's not something I'm in a huge rush to do, but it's definitely less stressful to think about it now whilst its not a problem, than when the clutch randomly goes on me .

As for the other bits of work whilst the engines out (it definitely does sound to be the best way to get access if doing other work too!), coolant pipes sounds a good bet seeing as I've already worked on the ones in the engine bay. Would it be fair to say that fuel lines are much easier to do whilst the engines out too? Cost permitting of course, I'd like to do as much as possible - clutch fork arm will be on the radar too as I also remember reading a thread some time ago about the Atmo having a rather frail pin relative to the turbo. Fortunately for me, the subframe has already been attended to by the previous owner who has it shotblasted

Regarding the slave cylinder, I take it that if there were problems with this, it would manifest itself in issues with the stiffness of the clutch, rather than the brakes as would be the case with the master cylinder on these?

Raaj

Fuel lines are actually doable even with the engine back in situ. The atmo is even easier in that respect whereas the turbo needs custom new flexi lines otherwise if you do it with everything in place. I think atmo should be a doddle.

Coolant pipes, yep no way of knowing how they look on the inside, so I'd definitely replace then if you have the cash.

Fork arm was the same for atmo and turbo, but there was a later modification that strengthens it considerably, so I'd go the later version if yours isn't already fitted with that part.

Re the slave cylinder, no not really. They don't tend to show any sign until they pop. So pedal usually feels the same even if it's worn. You might get some play, but not necessarily. The best check is to look in the V of the engine and see if there's any fluid puddling in there that'll be a sure sign that it's weeping. Obviously if you are losing any fluid from the slave then you'll have noticed the level in the reservoir drop. To be honest, atmo slave isn't too tricky to change even with the engine back in place, so don't fret too much. The turbo requires removal of the turbo to get at it, as it's all underneath, so it's definitely the one to think about.

Atmo is less of a packed engine bay, so more options all round even once it's gone back together.

How many miles has it done? Clutches last well on the GTA usually.

Fuel lines are actually doable even with the engine back in situ. The atmo is even easier in that respect whereas the turbo needs custom new flexi lines otherwise if you do it with everything in place. I think atmo should be a doddle.

Coolant pipes, yep no way of knowing how they look on the inside, so I'd definitely replace then if you have the cash.

Fork arm was the same for atmo and turbo, but there was a later modification that strengthens it considerably, so I'd go the later version if yours isn't already fitted with that part.

Re the slave cylinder, no not really. They don't tend to show any sign until they pop. So pedal usually feels the same even if it's worn. You might get some play, but not necessarily. The best check is to look in the V of the engine and see if there's any fluid puddling in there that'll be a sure sign that it's weeping. Obviously if you are losing any fluid from the slave then you'll have noticed the level in the reservoir drop. To be honest, atmo slave isn't too tricky to change even with the engine back in place, so don't fret too much. The turbo requires removal of the turbo to get at it, as it's all underneath, so it's definitely the one to think about.

Atmo is less of a packed engine bay, so more options all round even once it's gone back together.

How many miles has it done? Clutches last well on the GTA usually.

Apologies it has taken me so long to get back on this! The advice is very much appreciated as always. Daily life has been getting in the way of my best interests to look into this - given that its currently still running well (touch wood, I've even managed to take it out to car meets!), potential future problems can quite easily get cast aside. That said, I think its about time I look into this again!

Seeing as I have an Atmo, it does seem there might be a few things that dependent on my budget, I may be able to get away with doing in situ as you mentioned like the fuel lines.

Regarding the slave cylinder, using the help of my trusty workshop manual, I managed to figure out where in the engine bay it is, and I must say, the location of it towards the front of the V seem quite tight for access to the 2 bolts, plus you'd be doing it blind due to the angle! I had a little look around the V of the engine for any leaks that could suggest the slave is on its way out, and there does seem to be some pink residue behind the slave inside the V (see the pictures) but I feel like that could have just been from the past and just not been cleaned up since. Definitely no puddling as far as I can tell for now.

I've attached a couple of other pictures of some interesting things I noticed whilst I was taking a peak too - one of some kind of pipe that isnt connected, and another showing some sort of fluid that I'll need to identify whats above it that could have caused it, perhaps after giving it a little clean up to see whether it is just an old leak that was already attended to.

As for the mileage, its on 105k but I've no idea how nice the previous owners were to the clutch! I'd like to think my heel and toe skills might prolong it

Atmo slaves are relatively easy to get, but that one looks fine (to me ) for now, iis it giving proper release?
Renault master fits IIRC. The pipe to it can be a problem, the one that Simon auto sell is too flexible and will reduce movement, a braided pipe (available from RATS) solves that.
Your oily reside is probably due to a leak at some point from a rocker cover. The pressed tin rockers on an Atmo are prone to leaks, they should have special rectangular washers to help, but I eventually used instant gasket to banish the leaks on mine. As yours looks to be an old stain, I guess the rockers arer not leaking now, but it's important that they arent as the oil leaks onto the exhaust manifolds and has been known to start fires. You don't want a fire in an alpine, they dont always survive.
Your stray pipe looks like one of the vacuum pipes between the carbs and the distributor or the idle control valve. There is a diagram in the workshop manual, it's too complex to describe. Sorry!