new year new car gta v6 gt

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Postby clee » Tue Apr 26, 2011 8:07 am

Almost :(

It's all bolted in , piped up and electrics done ,clutch hydraulics bled and now OK .Spins on the starter ,plugs out ,primed to go .
But..... most of the water I put in on Saturday night had come out by Sunday morning .
The rad seems to be leaking big time .It looks new but there is a big leak .Didn't see it until the morning as it took a while to fill the undertray ......Probably rotted somewhere from 10+ years of sitting and just decided to show itself now :evil: It might just be the endtank seals but the front has got to come off :cry:
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Postby si21 » Tue Apr 26, 2011 2:08 pm

clee wrote:Almost :(

It's all bolted in , piped up and electrics done ,clutch hydraulics bled and now OK .Spins on the starter ,plugs out ,primed to go .
But..... most of the water I put in on Saturday night had come out by Sunday morning .
The rad seems to be leaking big time .It looks new but there is a big leak .Didn't see it until the morning as it took a while to fill the undertray ......Probably rotted somewhere from 10+ years of sitting and just decided to show itself now :evil: It might just be the endtank seals but the front has got to come off :cry:
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As you fix one bit anther bit drops straight back off ....in my experience :lol: :lol: :lol:

Now wondering if I need a new /gearbox rebuild :roll:

Don't mention those fantastic carbs :shock: dont make me larf :evil:

si21 Tickover and second gear ....were these optional extra's :?:
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Postby BIG_MVS » Wed Apr 27, 2011 11:53 am

We have the same issue with our project GTA with the rad.

I suspect it's due to the lack of decent Anti Freeze in the car. Then add in the very cold winter we had and it's no wonder the rad is fecked. Ours is that damaged we can't even get it re-cored as the end tanks have totally had it.

Good news your getting there though, onwards and upwards!
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Postby si21 » Wed Apr 27, 2011 2:46 pm

BIG_MVS wrote:We have the same issue with our project GTA with the rad.

I suspect it's due to the lack of decent Anti Freeze in the car. Then add in the very cold winter we had and it's no wonder the rad is fecked. Ours is that damaged we can't even get it re-cored as the end tanks have totally had it.

Good news your getting there though, onwards and upwards!


I found the rad on my car was ok looking, metal endcaps looked fine and seemed as if it flowed ok off the car, but after sitting for so long and probably with little antifreeze as you say, the bottom half of the rad was virtually blocked with sediment and this bunged up further as the engine got hot (boiling in my case) :lol: and more and more sediment loosened within the engine cooling system. Probably wise to just ditch it have it recored in the first place, its a lot less hassle and cheaper than heads off and new gaskets.

TBH I wish I had done the whole engine out thing from the start would have been cheaper and less grief in the long run.

Good luck Clee I hope it all runs ok I know what a pain they can be.



si21...I love it when I am driving it tho' :roll: go figure
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Postby clee » Wed Apr 27, 2011 3:02 pm

Rad is with the Radman who thinks he can repair it but it's right up near the end tank so may be awkward .....
Only 5 snapped bolts etc getting the bumper off though so result :lol:
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Postby andy001 » Wed Apr 27, 2011 6:35 pm

that was quick :shock: did'nt think it would be out and off for repair so soon, well done lee.
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Postby clee » Wed Apr 27, 2011 6:48 pm

Thought I'd better crack on as been a bit slack of late :wink:
Hopefully I'll have it back midday tomorrow if he manages to repair it .
If not I'll plonk JIL's big rad on to fire up and check lump build ...Now the bumper is off that'll be possible to test run the lump .

It will need flushing a few times after it has warmed up ...you can feel and hear the crud being dislodged when you squeeze the pipework ....
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Postby si21 » Thu Apr 28, 2011 8:26 am

clee wrote:Thought I'd better crack on as been a bit slack of late :wink:
Hopefully I'll have it back midday tomorrow if he manages to repair it .
If not I'll plonk JIL's big rad on to fire up and check lump build ...Now the bumper is off that'll be possible to test run the lump .

It will need flushing a few times after it has warmed up ...you can feel and hear the crud being dislodged when you squeeze the pipework ....


I removed the two main coolant supply hoses and flushed the whole system through twice with a jet washer :lol: :lol: :lol: twice in both directions, engine as well. It might be worth removing the rad and joining the two hoses at the front as all that crud may end up getting lodged in the rad :( now I think of it :lol: :lol: :lol:

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Postby clee » Thu Apr 28, 2011 8:59 am

Way ahead of ya Si :P
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Postby JohnC » Thu Apr 28, 2011 9:42 am

My trick when flushing is to remove the two engine drains and the thermostat, wrap some cloth around a trigger hose gun to make a sort of seal, offer it up to the rad hoses and back flush. It is wise to put a plastic bag over the alternator though.
The reason for removing the thermostat is to open the way to the heads via the near side rad hose....with the stat in place, it just washes the pipe up to the stat and water does not enter the heads.
Also when flushing the rad, do it through the rad switch hole....it is lower than the hose connections.
Just a thought :wink:
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Postby clee » Thu Apr 28, 2011 11:13 am

Engine is clean as a whistle being just rebuilt :wink:
I flushed the main rigid pipes .Trouble is this car has sat for 10 + years so the steel pipes will be depositing shite for a few months when she's running .
No antifreeze for a few weeks as it'll all be going down the drain ..run ,empty,flush ,run empty flush till it starts to come out clear .

Radman has done his best but says it still leaks slightly so has not charged .It'll do to get the engine warmed up .
Recore is available at around £150 so will need that doing before I take her up to Halifax .Will hold enough to get to the MOT station and bed the rings .
All being well we should be running Sunday 8)
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Postby Stuart D » Thu Apr 28, 2011 12:14 pm

clee wrote:Engine is clean as a whistle being just rebuilt :wink:
I flushed the main rigid pipes .Trouble is this car has sat for 10 + years so the steel pipes will be depositing shite for a few months when she's running .
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A 'solution' (scuse the pun) to the rusty rigid pipes might be to use deox C (www.bilthamber.com). It's a crystaline powder, which when dissolved in water effortlessly de-rusts items to a perfect, clean bare-metal finish. So I'm thinking that this could be used in situ by blocking off the lowest end of the pipes and puring the solution in and leaving for 24 hours. :idea:
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Postby clee » Thu Apr 28, 2011 12:18 pm

Good idea but my fear is that too much of the rust might then come off and we'll have a big hole in the pipes :lol:
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Postby Alpineandy » Thu Apr 28, 2011 1:54 pm

Or lots of small holes = A self steam cleaning undercarriage! :lol:
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Postby clee » Thu Apr 28, 2011 3:31 pm

:lol:

Always a silver lining with you innit :lol:
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