JL Engineering Bi-Turbo 3.0 Project+full chassis refurb

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Re: JL Engineering Bi-Turbo 3.0 Project+full chassis refurb

Postby Miles » Thu Jun 19, 2014 9:18 am

John Viola, i thought you mentioned previously that yours blasted out and you had to put a sock init?

Haha
No seriously I asked them to look over my fan speed etc, they were not interested and are wrapping this side of the business up. Only doing mine as a favour. So I would suggest if you need anything doing get in there quick. He was basically saying they were just going to supply stuff from now on.
Changing times, according to the boss everybody can recharge etc from the back of a van with no overheads. Which is a shame as they do a great job.
Dave
Last edited by Miles on Fri Jun 20, 2014 9:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: JL Engineering Bi-Turbo 3.0 Project+full chassis refurb

Postby Miles » Fri Jun 20, 2014 6:36 pm

Picked my car up from Reeder Air today,
And for the first time in a long time my aircon is working again. Thankfully.
So no longer sat in a sauna :geek: :up
Shame they are no longer doing custom work, highly recommended.
Best to keep standard, moving pump, has caused a lot of heart ache and expense.
From custom hoses front to rear and smaller size pump to fit.

Roll on Goodwood.

Luckily too as my electric drivers window switch is starting to play up.
Another item for the to do list.
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Re: JL Engineering Bi-Turbo 3.0 Project+full chassis refurb

Postby Miles » Fri Jun 27, 2014 10:03 pm

Still need to sort this gearbox LEAK. The herringbone drive way I had fitted is not a fan of gearbox oil too. Does anyone know where or how I can get this sorted, Steve says his 610 does it too!

So the problem is affecting more than just me. Maybe I'm just a perfectionist but it is worrying the consequences of losing to much oil would destroy the box. And it's not a 5 minute job topping it up.
Although me and Andy managed it pretty quickly in Macon.

Any assistance would be most appreciated.
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Re: JL Engineering Bi-Turbo 3.0 Project+full chassis refurb

Postby mettersl » Fri Jun 27, 2014 10:44 pm

My 610 had a gearbox leak until the roll pins were resealed. Dry after that (although the crank pulley seal was a little damp especially with thin oils).
Where is yours leaking from? The main spilt joint or somewhere else?
There are some good wick In Oil sealing compounds out ther,e I am told...
Cheers
Lee
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Re: JL Engineering Bi-Turbo 3.0 Project+full chassis refurb

Postby John Law » Fri Jun 27, 2014 11:27 pm

Its leaking from the driveshaft seals as the driveshafts have wear on the sealing face. Had the problem before, you can try reinstalling new seals a little further outboard to try and seal on a fresh surface or as Stephane from France who knows these boxes inside out suggested, machine 1.5mm off of the driveshaft and shrink fit a stainless steel sleeve of corresponding thickness to act as a new sealing face. This has worked well for him.
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Re: JL Engineering Bi-Turbo 3.0 Project+full chassis refurb

Postby Miles » Fri Jun 27, 2014 11:46 pm

John, that's a little above my talents could I remove and send to him to have this done, shafts that is?
Are the seals an easy job or do I need any special tools?
Or for that matter is there any new shafts we can buy?

My old box did not leave big puddles under it, I would have noticed that.
My garage floor is two part mix and creme to reflect light. Great for finding dropped bolts.
Now the old engine was leaky I'll give you that, well it looked worse than it was. I cured most when I re sealed the rocker covers.

You can tell the difference from hypoid to engine oil though.

Thanks for the quick reply too, much appreciated.

P.s you don't think there is a difference in the drive shafts?i.e the 610 maybe marginally stronger/thicker?
Last edited by Miles on Sat Jun 28, 2014 12:05 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: JL Engineering Bi-Turbo 3.0 Project+full chassis refurb

Postby Miles » Fri Jun 27, 2014 11:52 pm

Moved from tony fleishman post.
Lee quite probably, I was under the impression this had been resolved prior to picking the car up. So was a little surprised to be handed a spare pump with the car and told it was leaking water in to the V. I may go down the route of just plumbing the new pump straight in or opt for this electric pump. However once I'm walking again, currently immobile, Bromley finished me of. I will asses all the options and make a plan. Most likely over the winter period. Having been without the car for two years, want to enjoy it a bit first and it's great fun. looking forward to Goodwood and Croix. It's not using much water just a touch. It's using more gearbox oil ( I knew I should have kept my old box) until this box had proved itself reliable. As a plus I will need to remove the intake plenum. This will allow me to pick up the remaining shards of rear screen and to clean up the v again. I will of course make sure I have new seals prior to doing this. But loving my car can't wait to fit the front bumper and additional chargecooler rad.
Last edited by Miles on Sat Jun 28, 2014 12:28 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: JL Engineering Bi-Turbo 3.0 Project+full chassis refurb

Postby Miles » Fri Jun 27, 2014 11:59 pm

mettersl wrote:My 610 had a gearbox leak until the roll pins were resealed. Dry after that (although the crank pulley seal was a little damp especially with thin oils).
Where is yours leaking from? The main spilt joint or somewhere else?
There are some good wick In Oil sealing compounds out ther,e I am told...
Cheers
Lee

Lee what is wick in Oil sealing compounds, is this like rad weld but for your gearbox?
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Re: JL Engineering Bi-Turbo 3.0 Project+full chassis refurb

Postby Miles » Sat Jun 28, 2014 10:10 pm

Reader Air,
Further to my last.
Reader Air had to do a custom instal to refit my aircon on my car post twin turbo engine transplant due to lack of room for the existing pump. This was achieved by them supplying a smaller pump and John having to be fit it on the opposite side of the engine. (Apparently it was a bit of a botch but John got there in the end) This then necessitated new pipe work front to rear! Done by Reader Air. As this was being done I decided to replace the evaporator !(aircon rad even though my old one had been pressure tested the previous year to cover all bases) and the can thingamajig. However while at croix one of the new pipes burst due to it's close proximity to the exhaust manifold and clearly the gasses escaped.

Having recently rectified most of the teething problems with the car, I then booked the car back in to get the aircon rectified. I dropped the car of and the manager dropped me of at the station. I picked the car up the following day where their technician explained to me how they had overcome the problem, very clever.

The most gratifying part however was when I asked how much do I owe you guys , they immediately replied "don't be silly all our work carries a guarantee" I was mightily impressed especially as this was a Custom install. Just a real shame they are stopping this side of their business. So if anyone has any aircon issues get in touch with them quickly.

One word sums these guys up "professional" I honestly can't recommend them enough.
Last edited by Miles on Sat Jun 28, 2014 11:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PXR

Postby Miles » Sat Jun 28, 2014 11:14 pm

In the Army we do post exercise report, here are a few pointers. Now I have had the car back a while, I felt it was time to put my thoughts down before they were lost in time.

If you too fancy going down the twin turbo route I know Jo's Son is tempted.
Firstly decide if you want to keep your aircon or not ( this is the customers decision) why wouldn't you! (Personal preference I guess, but as these cars are ovens, was a no brainer to me) .
If that's a yes then it would be best to keep both turbos as high as possible. This also enable you to keep the original aircon pump in the standard Gta position, as a plus! although John will disagree the turbos just might self drain too.(provided of course you tapped the returns above the oil line"I did say below the oil line was never going to work" trust your instincts especially if you're the customer as you're paying for it. That's a valuable lesson I have learned here)
This would have simplified everything and saved a lot of time ,effort and as a bonus less weight too.
Don't be lead a stray. I did not want the subframe blasted I should have stuck to that decision right or wrong. It does however look great. :) changing the ECU why? I will never fathom that one.
I wanted the engine to ingest its blow by gases, I still do. I now have the most complicated breather system known to man, Tim Jeffres (blue610) could not believe the complexity and it's still giving me grief. I am adapting it further. Hopefully my next mod will be the last here, watch this space else it's getting plumbed in as per a conventional 610.

The morale here is set up a plan of work you want to have done and stick to it, don't be swayed. It will only cause resentment. Unless your chosen a custom engineer fabricator that can demonstrate a dam good reason for any alteration. Communication is also key from both sides.
Also get quotes for all work to be undertaken, I never and regret this. This would aid decision making and prevent any conflicts as well as key mile stones, maybe I should have used a Gantt chart who knows. Things snowball we are after all human, like doing the rear brake upgrade having the shocks refurbished these were all extras. And as for paint trying to match red paint is a no go, I did say however if this was not possible I would rather leave the blisters on the doors. But hey ho.

I can honestly say I love my car, John has done a great job and he is a real artist when you look in the engine bay, it looks amazing and drives exceptionally. But I would do it differently if I was to embark on such an enterprise again. Thanks John for your hard graft. Let's enjoy them now.
Last edited by Miles on Wed Jun 05, 2019 10:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: JL Engineering Bi-Turbo 3.0 Project+full chassis refurb

Postby John Law » Sun Jun 29, 2014 5:39 am

Haha Dave are you high..
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Re: JL Engineering Bi-Turbo 3.0 Project+full chassis refurb

Postby Miles » Sun Jun 29, 2014 8:27 am

High as a kite mate, not slept in days.
But catching you up on the beard stakes. Haha
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Re: JL Engineering Bi-Turbo 3.0 Project+full chassis refurb

Postby Miles » Mon Sep 22, 2014 10:28 pm

Having been tidying up the wiring at the front of my car.
I seem to have unearthed a few oddities .
Note I have the new larger radiator fitted (which i don't recommend as it needed the chassis cutting to make it fit)
For one my rad seems to no longer have a rad fan temp switch fitted!
Secondly my radiator fans have appeared intermittent as to when they come on or off.
I have found the possible reason for this too.
My ecu is controlling fans but if coolant temp is unusual it defaults to 80.
Fans don't kick in till 90. Therefore it looks as though I have no safety net. (Which explains why they have not kicked in on more than one occasions when gauge reads over 100. Yet on other days kick in at 90 on the button. (I do feel 90 is a little early however)

My plan here would be to have a rad fan temp switch refitted to radiator.
Has anyone retrofitted the original or know of one that I can easily fit?
Secondly and more of an interim would be to connect the original fan stat wiring (which is currently doing nothing) and route it to a cabin switch, so I can switch on when I feel it would be beneficial.
Thirdly, I feel I should change map to default to above fan cut in threshold, if readings spurious.

Any advice, thoughts would be appreciated.
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Re: JL Engineering Bi-Turbo 3.0 Project+full chassis refurb

Postby clee » Tue Sep 23, 2014 6:45 am

Just fit an inline adapter in the rad hose .I'd have it switched via this only ,not ECU controlled .Various temp rated sensors here also


http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/a ... using-32mm
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Re: JL Engineering Bi-Turbo 3.0 Project+full chassis refurb

Postby andyh877 » Tue Sep 23, 2014 7:29 am

Miles wrote:My plan here would be to have a rad fan temp switch refitted to radiator.
Has anyone retrofitted the original or know of one that I can easily fit?
Secondly and more of an interim would be to connect the original fan stat wiring (which is currently doing nothing) and route it to a cabin switch, so I can switch on when I feel it would be beneficial.
Thirdly, I feel I should change map to default to above fan cut in threshold, if readings spurious.

Any advice, thoughts would be appreciated.


I've just done exactly the same on a Lotus elan S3, new ally rad, with an electric fan, switched by an in line sensor in the tube next to the thermostat housing and also connected to a manual override switch on dash, works a treat and no more hot steam sauna.....

its pretty simple enough to do and there are guides on the net on how to wire it all up
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